Ash gets a religion
I like history, particularly architecture, and I usually check out churches when I travel just because they're beautiful and interesting. I've lived in a triangle of churches in Portland for many, many years and I realized that I've never gone inside any of them. I'm an atheist, I have no reason to other than curiosity, so I reached out to the Catholic Cathedral, Jewish Temple, and Episcopal Cathedral asking if I could see if they'd let me have a peek. This is the first in either a two or three part series, depending on who all gets back to me.
The first Trinity church was built in 1853 downtown at SW 5th and Oak on land donated by Benjamin Stark, an early Portland developer and unapologetic racist and maybe we shouldn't be naming streets after him. (Subsequently, the stretch of Stark Street through downtown has been renamed in honor of the gay rights pioneer Harvey Milk.)
Regrettably, this church was built out of wood and, in 1902, sadly and predictably burnt down.
In 1906, the new Trinity Episcopal Church opened in Northwest Portland, unsurprisingly now built out of stone and may be the most European looking of all the churches in town. A handful things from the original church were able to be salvaged, including the beautiful, center stained glass window in the main hall and the pulpit which you can still see today. At that time, while NW Portland was a wealthy and upscale neighborhood, the streets weren't even paved yet. Houses in the area were large Victorians on large lots. Most Episcopalian parishioners lived here so it made sense to build the church among them.
Feels like I’m going to the Ren Faire.
In 1948, the Vanport Flood wiped out an entire town in Portland, displacing thousands of people, mostly African Americans. Portland in this time was still very racist, with exclusionary laws on the books that prohibited Blacks from even integrating with society. But the Episcopalian Church opened its doors to refugees regardless of color (so fuck off Benjamin Stark), provided food and aid, and helped find housing for those in need. The Vanport Flood is a complicated story that's worth reading up on, and it was really a turning point in Portland's history toward ending the prejudice and racism that had long dominated the entire state. (Not gonna lie, there's still a lot of work to do, and I don't want to diminish the fact that racial injustice is still a MAJOR problem in this city.)
In 1993, the church got Cathedral status for the Diocese of Oregon. I don't know what that means, all I know is they've been a constant source of goodness and positivity in the neighborhood. They have weekly food distributions to the homeless population. They regularly partner with local organizations to provide food and assistance to elderly, low income, and homeless populations in the city. And they do all this without any sort of proselytizing or anything. I need to meet these people.
I was graciously given a tour of this beautiful building last week and I'm happy to report that I didn't burst into flames. The Reverend who was showing me around was kind and soft spoken, very humble about all these things that I was in awe of. The space is grand, spectacular in that Portland way, where nature, craftmanship, and beauty blend with function so perfectly. I don't know what to call the big room where everyone attends church because I'm a heathen who's never been. The Nave? Sanctuary? Doesn't matter, it is stunning. It's subdued in its grandeur, in a Craftsman-meets-Cascade kind of way. The A-frame wood ceiling is Portland appropriate but could just as easily be somewhere in Switzerland. The pews are original, over 110 years old, and are in incredible condition. The Reverend told me that they are inspected and repaired weekly. She pointed out the beautiful stained glass window and pulpit, both salvaged from the 1853 church, which are lovingly cared for and in fantastic condition.
There is a smaller chapel to one side. Similarly styled, with the A-frame ceiling but lacking in the ornate wood work. She said this is where they will often have weddings, blessings, and other smaller ceremonies. There is an organ in here, but it's above and behind the pews.
But my eyes are drawn to the pipe organ. I am a keyboard player and I have an affinity for pipe organs, so I had many questions. It is named the Rosales Organ, Opus 11, and was constructed between 1981 and 1987, when it was finally dedicated. Built specifically for this hall, it consists of 54 stops and over 4000 pipes! It's made of white oak, a tree native to the Willamette Valley. As much as I wanted to, I didn't ask to play it. I was quietly hoping she would invite me to, but I know it's a pain in the ass to get one up to speed. She said they give tours of it where they take you inside, so I must come back for that. The Reverend informed me that when the old organ was decommissioned, its pipes were removed and distributed all over the world. An organ donor.
Before covid happened, the cathedral would often host concert series on the organ, sometimes with full orchestral accompaniment. I had always intended to go to one but somehow never made it happen. They're starting to have events now as the world slowly returns to some sort of normal and I will jump at the next opportunity. The Reverend suggested I join the mailing list to be notified of upcoming concerts. Hell yeah, I have to hear this organ! If you’re an orchestral music afficionado, be sure check their calendar for upcoming events, their program is a hidden gem in Portland.
I loved being taken on this little tour, I was very glad I had asked. The cathedral is gorgeous inside and out, well worth a visit if you're ever in Portland. They would be happy to see you, especially if you want to do some tourism volunteering. You’ll find a warm welcome here, whoever you are.
