Coming home to the NW International Hostel
Have you never stayed in a hostel before? Maybe a little nervous about sharing communal space with strangers? Just apprehensive about what to expect? Yeah, I get it. Being transgender, most new places come with a certain amount of anxiety. A hostel can be a daunting concept to anyone who hasn't done it before. But if you’re visiting Portland, do yourself a favor and check into the NW International Hostel and Guesthouse. Do it well in advance, there are countless reasons why it’s routinely full. This is far better than any hotel experience you could imagine.
The first thing you see when you enter the lobby of the NW International Hostel is a giant map of Portland on the wall. Points of interest adorn the map and you quickly get a feel for how much there is to do in the city. What you might not realize is how much of it is within walking distance of this cute building on the corner of NW 18th and Flanders. Fortunately for you, you’re in the friendliest, most helpful lodging you can find in the city.
Staff will be happy to point you toward where you want to go, help you use the Nike shared bicycle service, or explain your public transportation options. Opened in 1998 in a single turn-of-the-century house, it now boasts five houses with 32 private rooms, 160 dorm beds, and 2 apartments. In 2020, it was voted 3rd best medium size hostel in the world!
On this cold and rainy (hail, too!) afternoon, I was granted a tour and an opportunity to sit down with one of the owners for a chat. Britta is an unpretentious woman, small in stature but overflowing with love and joy for what she does and the people she meets. She is the kind of person who makes you feel better just by talking with her, a rare trait that she has somehow blessed every inch of the property with.
Britta eagerly shows off each room, which vary in size from eight bed dorm rooms to private European style rooms with attached baths. In shared rooms, everyone gets their own locker and reading light, and the beds are arranged so that nobody has feet near their head. The dorm rooms have shared bathrooms, which are abundant and gender neutral.
Some of the rooms in the Guesthouse have private bathrooms. Guesthouse rooms are also 100% ADA compliant, with easy access to showers and shelves for guests in wheelchairs, a feature that Britta is proud to offer. The private rooms have nice touches like dressers, desks, or tables with chairs by the window
Each house has a kitchen and they're all fully stocked with everything you need to cook for yourself. Clean up after yourself is the rule in hostels. And it's Portland, so you'll be recycling everything you can.
Traveling with a large group? There’s a whole entire house with a private kitchen for you!
I’ve been coming to the Hostel Café for years and the staff has always been warm, welcoming, and helpful. As Britta showed me around the property, I came to understand where that comes from. The NW Hostel and Guesthouse has a culture of service and comfort, but in true hostel form, it really blossoms when you share a piece of yourself. Opportunities abound to interact with your fellow travelers, in the café and the many nooks and pockets throughout all of the houses. Brimming with charm, many of these nooks have modest views through the trees into the neighborhood, or into the Secret Garden accessible only to guests.
As we wander from room to room, house to house, I encounter guests who are relaxing, eating, reading, or typing on their computer. Relaxation is the name of the game here, and the common spaces are designed with that in mind. Soft natural lighting and plush couches abound the living room spaces, with dining room tables and chairs for eating or playing board games. Many of the original architectural touches still grace the houses; the gentle curves of the staircase bannisters, fireplaces, and crown moldings. It all gives the feeling of being home, or where you wish were home.
Inclusion is at the heart of this business. Everyone is welcome, and it’s more than just the rainbow flag in the entrance. Britta tells me they have two rules: Clean up after yourself and be respectful to everyone. It seems to be working because the place is very clean, but I am forced to inquire if they ever have problems. Yes, she says, but it’s very rare and people are given warnings which is usually sufficient to quell a situation. But on occasion, she says they have had to inform a guest that it wasn’t a good fit and they left without issue. The vast majority of guests are seasoned travelers who arrive with open minds and hearts and are happy to know you.
Frequent activities are organized in the Hostel Café to bring people together and are free to anyone, even locals. Live Irish or folk music on the patio entices nearly locals to drop in to listen. I attended a trivia night a couple weeks ago with my friend and we got 3rd place, thank you very much. Their food is total yum, too, I can’t get enough of the bacon and blue burger that I order so frequently they might as well name it after me. My friend is addicted to the garlic thyme fries, they’re the thin crispy kind. Food and beverages are locally sourced wherever possible. Of course it wouldn’t be Portland without local craft beer, craft cider, craft kombucha, and craft soda on tap.
There is ample seating, both inside or around the firepit on the patio nestled in a courtyard between two houses. It can get busy so don’t be surprised if you get company at your table. That is the point.
The hostel’s greatest amenity is the people. Tourists and locals alike congregate in the café, lounge, and patio to share stories or give travel advice. It’s not hard to strike up a conversation with patrons, as anyone there knows travelers might want to talk. Attending events is the best way to make connections happen, whether it’s a trivia night or one of the guided walking tours the hostel provides. Once a month, they join the weekly neighborhood cleanup, volunteering to pick up litter and guests are invited to join in. Check out their event calendar!
Any discussion about visitors to Portland begs the question, what is our reputation like out there? What are people expecting when they show up? Most people understand that, like many cities, the pandemic hit hard and it’s going to take some time to recover. People are coming to Portland for the same reasons as ever: To experience our weirdness and tax free shopping. But first impressions may depend on how you arrive in the city. Britta says that most of her guests arrive on Amtrak and the neighborhood around Union Station is pretty rough right now. People have shown up at the hostel rather shaken from experience, so if that’s your method of arrival, be prepared. Violence is rare, but you may encounter some aggressive panhandlers or someone experiencing mental health issues.
A world traveler herself, Britta understands and anticipates the needs of her guests. Wi-Fi is free, or there is a computer you can use for $1 per quarter hour. Forgot your lock? No problem, you can borrow one for a refundable deposit. Need to stash your bike? There’s indoor storage. Got laundry? Coin-ops are available and you can purchase soap at the front desk. A signup sheet for travelers who need a ride or have room in their car is also available. Frequent hostellers will be familiar with all the networking opportunities available.
The hostel is super close to the streetcar, light rail, and a bus stop nearly at the front door. Downtown Portland is a 15 minute walk, the Pearl arts district even closer, and the trendy shops and restaurants of NW 23rd are just up the street. If you're a soccer fan, the Timbers and Thorns play in Providence Park just blocks away. It may sound like the center of town, but it's really on a quiet corner in a historically protected pocket of Portland that has tree lined streets and plenty of charm. It just happens to be near everything.
You could easily spend a lot of money on lodging in Portland. Or maybe you could find some great deals. But for my money, you won’t find a better place to call home while you’re here. To say the NW International Hostel is queer friendly is a colossal understatement. You will be treated with kindness, respect, and warmth that you’re not likely to find in any hotel. Whether you're a seasoned hosteller or it's your first time: It doesn’t matter who you are, you belong here.
